Radiator "size" for winter/summer
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Radiator "size" for winter/summer
When I bought my trike with 582, 2 years ago, the owner trailered it down from Gaut..(that place in the north). It arrived here with duck tape over half of the radiator. He said that was for the cold temperatures and is an approved way of running the engine at the right temperature. The gauge showed around 40 with the duck tape. I took it of during the warm summer months. We have very low temperatures at the moment; the motor is still running at 40 without the duck tape. Is this OK?. 40 seem to be very low. EGT 7
Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
If you are talking 40 as in degrees that is too low and not good for your engine at all . 70-80 degrees is what you want, have the temp gauge checked to make sure your getting the right reading.
Regards
Sukkelaar
Regards
Sukkelaar
Kyk Noord
Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
Yes way too cold, needs to be 65 to 80 deg C
Duct tape is the easiest way of temporarily changing the water temp. But definately test the probe. You can take it out and dip it into a cup of boiling water, it should read close to 100deg C. You might need to drain a little water out first otherwise it is going to come pissing out of the hole in the top of the head.
Secondly, what ratio of Antifreeze/water are you using? If there is more water than antifreeze the system becomes too efficient and overcools. It should be a 50:50 mix. You can increase the ratio of antifreeze to the point of just pure antifreeze. There is a product called Evans Waterless that is recommended to rotax engines specifically for this purpose.
How big is your radiator? maybe in the long run look at getting Silverton Radiators to make you up a smaller one.
Duct tape is the easiest way of temporarily changing the water temp. But definately test the probe. You can take it out and dip it into a cup of boiling water, it should read close to 100deg C. You might need to drain a little water out first otherwise it is going to come pissing out of the hole in the top of the head.
Secondly, what ratio of Antifreeze/water are you using? If there is more water than antifreeze the system becomes too efficient and overcools. It should be a 50:50 mix. You can increase the ratio of antifreeze to the point of just pure antifreeze. There is a product called Evans Waterless that is recommended to rotax engines specifically for this purpose.
How big is your radiator? maybe in the long run look at getting Silverton Radiators to make you up a smaller one.
Greg Perkins
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Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
Thanks Morph, will check the probe today. Had a good look at the temp yesterday. Goes up to 50 during flight. Must be the gauge.
- Duck Rogers
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Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
Also remember that the gauge and probe is a "matched" (calibrated)set. You can't just put any probe with any gauge. Normally change both if you have to. They're cheap enough. You'll see if you buy a set as Midas or wherever, they sell them in a matched set. An unmatched set will give you incorrect readings, even though the actual operating temp of the engine might be right.ZU BBV wrote:Thanks Morph, will check the probe today. Had a good look at the temp yesterday. Goes up to 50 during flight. Must be the gauge.
Airspeed, altitude, or brains....you always need at least two
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Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
Thanks again for all the help. I did the boiling water trick this morning. Gauge went up to 120 deg cels. If I add the 20 over boiling point to the 50 (that it shows during flight) it gives me 70. Do I still need to change? I now know that the gauge work, it is just showing 20 deg lower. Remember Midas very far from me.
Peter
Peter
Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
Ok. It is possible that sometime in the past the guage was changed and now no longer matches the probe as Duck says
You can either live with it, knowing that you need to add 20deg all the time or order spares from Comet Aviation in JHB 011 824-3368. They will ship it to you
You can either live with it, knowing that you need to add 20deg all the time or order spares from Comet Aviation in JHB 011 824-3368. They will ship it to you
Greg Perkins
Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
Does it show 20 something in the mornings before start-up. ( actual temp + 20). Its not worth taking a chance or guessing on working it out by just adding 20, if your wrong could cost you lots of money. my advice would be replace as soon as possible before you need a new engine shipped.
Regards
Sukkelaar
Regards
Sukkelaar
Kyk Noord
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Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
ZU BBV wrote:Thanks again for all the help. I did the boiling water trick this morning. Gauge went up to 120 deg cels. If I add the 20 over boiling point to the 50 (that it shows during flight) it gives me 70. Do I still need to change? I now know that the gauge work, it is just showing 20 deg lower. Remember Midas very far from me.
Peter
No, that is the wrong way round!
The Gauge is over reading by 20C (if it reads 120 in boiling water) so you have to deduct 20 to get your actual temp giving you only 30C

I won't fly below 65C, I have had a cold seizure once before and ended up in the mielies, no thanks, not again!
I would get it sorted out pronto....
Fly safe,
Rudi
"Never be afraid to try something new. Remember that a lone amateur built the Ark. A large group of professionals built the Titanic." 

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Re: Radiator "size" for winter/summer
The duct tape that was covering the radiator when I first bought the trike, makes sense to me now. I’m going to have to put that back during the winter again. What also made a change is the anti freeze ratio. I drained the water and replaced the contents with a 50/50 mix of water-anti freeze. The motor (or gauge) runs at 65 degrees now.
I can close half of the radiator with duct tape like the previous owner did, but the problem is – how much damage has been done? The motor runs beautifully and has about 75 hours on the clock. Yes I agree, a new probe and gauge is a must. Thanks for the contact detailes.
I can close half of the radiator with duct tape like the previous owner did, but the problem is – how much damage has been done? The motor runs beautifully and has about 75 hours on the clock. Yes I agree, a new probe and gauge is a must. Thanks for the contact detailes.
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