Spark plug damage?

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Aerosan
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Postby Aerosan » Sat Apr 29, 2006 9:50 am

Bennie die gans is nie slim nie hy kan net engels lees en dan skryf hy dit hier :!: No seriously :roll: he who gets it right the first time has learned one thing, he who does it a hundred time learnes a hundred new things!!

And believe me Duckie here has a wealth of knowledge. ut just for the recod can anyone tell us what the real difference is?
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Sparkplugs

Postby taaipitperske » Tue May 02, 2006 3:30 pm

So 'n paar jaar gelede het 'n klomp 'NGK' plugs vanaf 'n Oosterse land onwettig die land binne gekom. Die verpakking was baie goed nageboots en die verskil kon slegs op die vonkprop self (die inskripsie het verskil) gesien word.
"n Hele paar 'engine-outs' het die telefoonlyne laat gons en om hulself te vrywaar teen siviele eise, is die "geen mikroligte gebruik" op die verpakking aangebring.

Ek self het in die tyd oorgeslaan ne Bosch W4CC vonkproppe en nog nooit (+2000 ure) weer NGK gebruik nie. Verbranding is beter en die vonkproppe hou beslis langer
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Postby Aerosan » Tue May 02, 2006 4:21 pm

Welkom taaipit

Watse motor gebruik jy? brandstof olie ens?
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Duck Rogers
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Postby Duck Rogers » Tue May 02, 2006 7:31 pm

Welkom.

Thanks for the input....now we know why the boxes are marked the way they are :shock:

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Re: Sparkplugs

Postby Bennie Vorster » Tue May 02, 2006 7:46 pm

taaipitperske wrote:"n Hele paar 'engine-outs' het die telefoonlyne laat gons en om hulself te vrywaar teen siviele eise, is die "geen mikroligte gebruik" op die verpakking aangebring.
=D* =D* =D*

Welkom, Welkom taaipitperske.

Is dit nie exciting nie, Ek sou sweer hy kom van die Kaap af, maar nou sien ek eers hy's vanaf Namibia. Hierdie is lankal nie meer net 'n Zuid Afrikaanse forum nie en ons het noual manne en vroue vanaf reg oor die wereld wat hoogs geleerd en of die wereld se wysheid het om ons ouens op die regte pad te kan help. Is dit nie exciting nie. :lol: :wink: :wink: :wink: Word opreg wardeer. :lol:
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Re: Sparkplugs

Postby Griffin » Wed May 03, 2006 8:13 am

taaipitperske wrote:So 'n paar jaar gelede het 'n klomp 'NGK' plugs vanaf 'n Oosterse land onwettig die land binne gekom. Die verpakking was baie goed nageboots en die verskil kon slegs op die vonkprop self (die inskripsie het verskil) gesien word.
"n Hele paar 'engine-outs' het die telefoonlyne laat gons en om hulself te vrywaar teen siviele eise, is die "geen mikroligte gebruik" op die verpakking aangebring.

Ek self het in die tyd oorgeslaan ne Bosch W4CC vonkproppe en nog nooit (+2000 ure) weer NGK gebruik nie. Verbranding is beter en die vonkproppe hou beslis langer
A translation for the non Afrikaans speakers. (Sorry if it is a bit inaccurate)

"A few years ago a number of 'NGK' plugs from the far east arrived illegally in the country. The packaging was a very good imitation and the only way of telling the genuine NGK spark plug from the fake was by looking at the sparkplug (the inscription differed). After a number of engine-outs, and a lot of complaints, the NGK manufacturer added the warning "Not for Microlight Use" to protect themselves against civil action.

I changed over to Bosch W4CC plugs and have not (in +2000 hours) ever used NGK plugs. The ignition is better and the plug lasts a lot longer"
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Postby alan » Wed May 03, 2006 1:16 pm

One difference between the plugs is that the one supplied by Rotax has a fixed plug/cap at the top. The plugs in the red box have the screw on cap which I have seen a spark plug lead come off as the plug had unscrewed.
Make sense?
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Postby Duck Rogers » Wed May 03, 2006 9:20 pm

alan wrote:....The plugs in the red box have the screw on cap which I have seen a spark plug lead come off as the plug had unscrewed.
Make sense?....
Sure, it makes sense and that's good input !!!! but I just unscrew the loose cap, squash it a bit with a sidecutter or pliers and screw it back on :D Never to come off again :D

I have also recently changed my plug lead caps to ones that take the spark plug without the little loose cap on. So now I don't have to squash the little caps anymore....just unscrew them from the plug and pop the leads onto the plug. Many ways to kill da cat :D :D

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Postby alan » Fri May 05, 2006 1:25 pm

Looking up the internet for spark plug info I found the following which may be of interest
"If using a spark plug with an BR in its heading, (usually used for ignition noise suppression) such as NGK BR8ES, a resistor cap should not be used. This is because of the double resistance supplied when using both a resistor plug and resistor cap. It is advisable with engines running in the inverted position to use a spark plug with an extended electrode. This aids in stopping spark plug fowling. Look for a BP in its heading (NGK BP 8ES)."

This article is in Ultralight News under 503 engine rebuild. Perhaps Niren can comment. I'll send him an email.
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Postby Duck Rogers » Fri May 05, 2006 1:36 pm

That's quite correct regarding the R in the plug number :D

There'a a trade-off regarding the P in the numbers. It's true that the P series will marginally help in starting an inverted mounted motor because the theory is that the tip "Protrudes" a little farther into the head and as such, if the engine tends to get flooded for whatever reason, the plug tip wil be out of the oil/fuel mixture. I hope you can follow what I'm trying to explain.

The trade-off is that the P series plugs has a slightly hotter firing tip. See my explanation above on another post in this thread. I would rather not have a "hotter" firing tip on my plugs. Personally, I think if the engine starts getting lean, you're gonna be marginal.

Note I'm talking about a hot firing tip and not a hot range plug :?: Two different things.

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vonkproppe

Postby taaipitperske » Fri May 05, 2006 5:00 pm

Haai

Ek het tans 'n 582 asook 'n 503, albei in trikes.

Ek gebruik gewone Caltex tweeslag olie, vir die eenvoudige rede, dat dit maklik bekombaar is, maar ook BAIE belangrik, omdat dit donker van kleur is - dit het die voordeel dat jy maklik kan sien watter kan se brandstof is gemeng en watter nie, en verder is dit maklikker om die brandstof vlak in die tank te sien.

Ons het op 'n stadium "skelm" brandstof vanaf Angola in die mark gehad, wat veroorsaak het dat ek oorgeslaan het na loodvrye brandstof (Angola verkoop nie loodvrye brandstof nie)

Die belangrikste egter is om gereeld te kyk vir water en brandstof te verbruik so gou moontlik na dit vermeng was.


Hoop dit help.
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alan
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Postby alan » Thu May 25, 2006 10:00 am

"It is advisable with engines running in the inverted position to use a spark plug with an extended electrode. This aids in stopping spark plug fowling. Look for a BP in its heading (NGK BP 8ES)."

Niren's reply
"Sorry for the delayed response, but I do eventually come around…………….
I had to do some research before answering this.

The article was written with reference to the old 532 and 503 points ignition engine. These engines had the spark plug in the centre of the head which allowed sufficient clearance between the electrode and the piston. Be careful of using the BP plug in the dual ignition engines where the spark plug is offset by 11 degrees, you will have piston damage.
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Postby kb » Thu May 25, 2006 11:00 am

I spoke to Aiden a few weeks back, and he said DO NOT use BPxxx plugs, because as Niren said, piston damage will occor, as they are longer. (or something to that effect)
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Spark plug damage

Postby Leprachaun » Thu May 25, 2006 7:43 pm

The correct plug gap is 0,45mm for the Rotax 503 , I set 1 plug per cylinder 0,40 and the other 0,45 - it just starts better .
The BR8ES plug from NGK is the Correct one , Aviation engines sell genuine Rotax NGK plugs , the little screwy thing on the top is fixed , the other genuine NGK plugs you can unscrew the little thingy on top .
Both work well if they are the correct heat range - BR8ES - DO NOT USE A RESISTOR plug as you can damage the stator coils , and it will battle to start when hot - Plug cap must be a 5Kilo ohm pug cap - you get red and blue replacement siliconcaps that work well .
Most commercial NGK BR8ES Boxes have the red cross on them , thanks to the Yanks who sue for plug failures - Thank goodness we dont use champion plugs - I buy my plugs from a motorcycle shop in JHB for R12<50 direct import from NGK USA , Used to get them from Lectrolight in RSA , but have to buy 2000 plugs at atime , Hope it helps , If all fails , read the manual - I have a spare 503 low hrs if ya need one :roll: :roll:
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Postby Duck Rogers » Sat May 27, 2006 8:01 pm

Leprachaun wrote:The BR8ES plug from NGK is the Correct one......BR8ES - DO NOT USE A RESISTOR plug as you can damage the stator coils
Huh :?: :shock:
Did you mean to say this or did you have finger problems :?: because that is not true....

:idea: Perhaps what you meant was: "do NOT use resistor plugs AND resistor CAPS together"

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