Microlighters

What method do you use to balance your twin carbs bing 54s, one idea that was show to me was to inset long welding rods under the throttle slides with the idle screws fully out and let the hang out of the carbs inlet....then just touch the throttle to make sure both rods twitch at exactly the same time,

I think this maybe ok to set the low speed section but what about WOT....how do I know mine are balanced at WOT,

Anybody got a better method without fancy electronic gizmo's.

Nick.

I can not tell you what the correct method is but you must just watch the way you want to do it with the rods will help you to set the plungers to start opening simultaneously but then you must be very sure that the needles at the bottom of the plungers have the same setting and and the same amount of wear, otherwise with the same amount of movement on both the plungers, you will not get equal amounts of fuel in both cylinders which will cause different air/fuel mixture ratios which can cause a difference in CHT between the 2 cylinders.

Hi
See Attachment. Try to scan the manual for you.
Fly safe
Gompou

Gompou seems to be on the money.

Found this interesting link. Hope it helps.

http://www.google.co.za/url?sa=t&source ... IlHvrSXXLA

Thanks guys...so it looks like the accurate way to do it is with the monometer....I will study the PDF as well....thank GOMPOU, was there only one page covering the carb balance??

I actually sent off to the states for a Bing tuning manual....what a waste of money....doesn't cover balancing.

Nick.

As far as I have it the 503/582 uses the bing 54 and the 912 uses the bing 64. You start off by loosening the cable adjuster screw at the top of the carb housing(slide) for both carbs and make sure the throttle cable is not sticking anywhere. For the 54 I use a 7mm drill bit to set the slides by adjusting the big idle srew on the side(normally the left side, and I thing it is a 13mm spanner) of the carb Make sure you slide the backside of the drillbit in the lowest part of the carb opening and parralel to the throat. Slide it in and out while adjusting the screw until the dril still slides but with zero play(not loose fit) When this is done you take up the slack in the cable by setting the top adjuster srew where the cable goes into the top housing of the carb. When this is done I depress the throttle full open (without engine running) a couple of times and then recheck the slack in the cable, if any then take up the slack again by adjusting. Make sure the cable is not sticking and that it is properly lubricated and if it's on a trike make sure you have a return spring or bungee on the foot throttle. This should do the trick. If done correctly the engine will be as smooth as you can get without fitting a heart/lung machine to it. If you don't come right let a AP help you.

Now this is why i Love this Forum

Thanks for the info .

Hi Nick
Jip, only one page .
Gompou

Gompou I see these instruction where from a Rotax manual....not seen them before in any of my manuals....was it an old one....I have been down to the hardware shop today and bought 6mts of clear tubing....looking forward to testing it out.


Nick.

Hi Nick
Rotax Repair manual for engine type 462-532-582 UL Edition 10 1994 I did mine with this method.I think it is more accurate than the method with the drill bits, simple because you can set it at different RPM.
Let me know what your findings was.
Gompou

I will...I have the tubing....the type or size I have is the same dia as goes on the vent pipes on the Bing 54....is that the same as you used...I also have about 6mts, yes I will let you know....thanks again.

Nick.

Hi
It just has to fit airtight around the vent's. 6 meters will be enough
Gompou

Made the gauge up today...filled it with a 1mt head of water as per Rotax....with a touch of food colour to make it more visable,

How on earth do you get the bubbles out of the water....I have hung it up for a few hours and they don't appear to have moved....the tube I am using is about 5mm o/d.

Nick.

Nick, you should be able to get the bubbles out by plugging the one end and hanging it up with the open end up. The air should go to the surface, which in this case, is the open end. You can "help" the air escape by tapping or shaking the pipe because you have a very thin pipe.
I use the same method in building construction with a 10 meter pipe.