Cracked Engine Mount and other issues.

[bobthebuilder]

Hi Everyone,

My Aquilla 1 has failed i'ts annual inspection becuase there is a hair-line crack in the engine mount. The crack cannot really be seen, but there is paint missing, and to be safe, I want to change it.

Question one: Does anyone have a spare Aquilla 2 engine mount lying around that they want to sell, before I order it from Solo Wings?
Question two: While it is at home, I would like to clean out the fuel tank. What is the best way to do this?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,
Byron.

[Morph]

Question two: While it is at home, I would like to clean out the fuel tank. What is the best way to do this?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks,
Byron.

Acetone

Take the tank off, empty it, put about 1 liter of acetone into the tank, add some nuts and bolts, close the tank and shake vigorously. Empty and repeat with new acetone until it comes out clear.

The plastic itself becomes stained over time and might not ever come back to the original opaque colour but you will be able to get all the gunge and grime out that has built up over the last few years.

Leave the top open to allow the remaining Acetone to evaporate overnight.

Make sure that the tank is 100% clean and clear of flakey pieces before putting it back.

You can get Acetone in 5l and 1l bottles at any hardware store.

I would also leave the old fuel filter on run it for about 5 hours to catch any possibility of loose gunk, then replace with a new filter. Learned through experience

[bobthebuilder]

Hi Greg,

I had never thought of acetone.
I'm not worried about the discolouring of the tank, but there seem to be some small flakes.

I'll give it a try tonight.

Thanks for the tip.

[Boet]

I know where you can find an engine mount.

[bobthebuilder]

Whoaaaa!!!! watch out for the fumes!

Worked well though.

Thanks.

[Morph]

sorry forgot to mention that

[bobthebuilder]

Hi Boet,

Please ..... do tell.

I am just about to order a new one ..... but they don't come cheap!

[bobthebuilder]

Thanks for the PM Boet.

[bobthebuilder]

Ok, so I splashed out on a nice shiny new engine mount, and have fitted it, really simple, ..... But, and it is a big BUT! .......

I took the engine off, and placed it carefully on the bench. The engine was not worked on in any way, not even cleaned. [yet]
When it was placed on the new engine mount today, all seemed well initially. The studs on the crankcase lined up perfectly with the holes on the Aluminium mounting plates. Here comes the [big] but.... the hose on the bottom of the crank case is touching the Aluminium mounting plate, and the engine hasn't seated yet. It still has to be tightened down. Basically, I need to put spacers under the motor to get the hose to clear the engine mount. The spacers will have to be around 12 to 15mm high. It is an elegant solution, but then the studs at the bottom of the crank case will be too short to get the nuts on.

I know that this hose was against the aluminium plate before I took the engine off, it is also evident by rub marks on the aluminium plate.
The hose elbow has not moved at all since the motor was taken off. The person who worked on it last, probably just torqued it down onto the hose clamp. I am NOT comfortable doing this.

Options:

1) Unscrew the elbow by an eighth of a turn or so? Nope! Won’t work. The elbow probably has a BSP thread on it, and being a taper thread, the oil will leak.
2) 4 off spacers as per above? 15mm probably won't change the thrust line significantly. But the studs under the motor become too short to accept a nut. Longer Studs?
3) Mill a pocket in the aluminium plates to accept the hose? Hell no! It didn't come from its mother like that in the first place! (Mods are out)

Has anyone had this problem before?
How is a new trike that rolls off the showroom floor configured?

MORPH!!!!!! You’re a practical guy ....... any ideas?

[Morph]

That angular tube can be moved, but if you do that the sealant will break. However this is Loctite 221 Violet (A)

so if you do move it, remove it completely, add the new loctite, then reinstall with an angle that fits

[bobthebuilder]

Is it not easier to remove the old studs, and replace them with new longer ones?
What grade would they be?

[Morph]

The stud's are M10X31/20 grade not sure, I would guess 8.8, but I am trying to confirm that so hang on a bit

they need to be retorqued to 10Nm, 90 in.lb

You would have to remove all 4 and they too would need the same Loctite 221 Violet (A)

To me much easier to remove one that already has a hex head, than 4 studs. You would also need studs with a longer shank portion as you do not want the shearing action on the threaded portion, see pic

[bobthebuilder]

Thanks Greg,

I must compliment you on your fantastic illustrations.
After looking at your sketch, I now agree that it would probably be easier to remove the elbow, with the hex, and refit it in the correct position.

I'll try and pick up the Loctite 221 Violet (A) on the way home.

Many thanks.

[AndyG]

Thanks Greg,

I must compliment you on your fantastic illustrations.

If I remember correctly Greg is involved in draughting or architecture or similar. But yes his diagrams are always accurate and neat and greatly assist in understanding things better.

[Morph]

If I remember correctly Greg is involved in draughting or architecture or similar. But yes his diagrams are always accurate and neat and greatly assist in understanding things better.

Nope did drawing as a subject at Technical High School

It's a brilliant application called Micrsoft Visio. It has standard libraries for all sorts of things, from IT, to building, maps, electrical, mechanical etc. I use in in my job to design IT systems, but also for house plans, built in cupboards and wiring diagrams for the Bush Baby

I find it far easier to explain something with a picture