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Rotax 582
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 3:03 pm
by Kingpost
Hi All
I have a question for the more mechanical advanced aviators.
I have replaced the whole shortblock on my Rotax 582 about 10 flying hours ago. Since then, basicly a year past that I was unable to attend to or fly my aircraft.

Unfortunately I have not stored the engine in the manner prescribed by the owners manual. I have cleaned the carburators etc. since everything was a little sticky, I would like to know however except for the vissible things (fuel lines etc. etc.) what can go wrong on the inside - bearings, seals and so on? or should these things still be ok?

Re: Rotax 582
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 4:29 pm
by Biggles
Not sure if this is the best thing to do but with the idea of getting as much lubrication into the engine as possible before it ran, after my aerie had been stopped for a long period, I added a double dose of two stroke and hand cranked (mags off) and then used the starter to spin it to get the mixture into the crank case as I was worried everything was dry, so I basically flooded it. Then I ground ran it for 5 minutes or so. With the auto lub you could possibly put premix in the carb bowls? Don't shoot me I nutting about the autolube system...
What you should be worried about is corrosion. I doubt that is as much an issue as down at the coast. You could take off the carbs and visually inspect the state of the piston for any evidense of corrosion.
Again you would need an annual inspection after standing for a year so why not get the AP to check all is still good.
Check the tank breather pipe as insects make nests in there. And in the exhaust.
Re: Rotax 582
Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 7:07 am
by Kingpost
Thanx for the advice Biggles!
Looks like I will be in the air again shortly

Re: Rotax 582
Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 9:33 am
by Morph
The 582 is more prone to corrosion on the crank than the 503 due to the design. Have an AP check it out
Re: Rotax 582
Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:24 pm
by KFA
Agree with Morph. A 582 has a rotary valve system that doesn't close both crank openings off at the same time so one chamber is always exposed to outside moisture and especially with a year that has passed there is bound to be a good chance of rust spots on the main bearings. The motor might run fine for a hour or two but you are bound to experience that sudden stoppage they talk about in the manual. Have it checked out, it will save you money and maybe even your life.
Regards
Stefan
Re: Rotax 582
Posted: Fri Jul 02, 2010 10:09 am
by Kingpost
KFA, Morph,
Thanks for the advice. I think I will be a good idea to check everthing out thouroughly before I start or even fly with it again. Although Phalaborwa is not that humid, we do have some acidity in the air thanks to the nearby copper mine. Authority to Fly looks a little further now, but I would only have it the safe way. I will keep you up to speed with any findings for future refrance.
Re: Rotax 582
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 2:19 pm
by Leprachaun
I have had a similar experience , just bought a 582 , 52 hours on the clock , left for a year , flushed with 2 stroke oils -
Now the trick , cleaned the plugs , used some compression stabiliser to flush the sticky super chainsaw oils and whalla , she started

ing blue smoke . Got her to operating temp and decided to do a strip down before flying - Just as well , the oils in the engine had gone sticky - pistons fouled with sticky stuff - Rotary valve signs of corrosion and now wait for it - the crank signs of corrosion as the oils did get there , but so did the organic acids in the combustion chamber - so if you want to moth ball it use mineral oils low viscositi such as 3in one and spray moisture repellent in the crankcase . use tissue paper in the inlets of the carbs and plug the exhaust , it will help, but still its a 582 - I prefer the Fuchs TCW3 oil as well as Engen Super outboard TCW# that has anti corrosve additives which would prevent me parting with R13,000-00 for a new cranks as in this case. Leprachaun