The Oily thing again!!

[Ou Man]

Please!!! Don’t crucify me for starting this oily discussion again, but I feel I can report some interesting facts and help to totally confuse some of you.
Oupa G mentioned that he is assisting someone with the overhauling of his Rotax 503. This is my motor he is revering to. In the process of getting my yearly AP inspection, he noticed, by looking at the pistons through the exhausts outlets that there was excess carbon buildup. We opened up and found that apart from the carbon the bottom rings were completely stuck. The piston tops were also slightly pitted due to possible overheating, fortunately not serious….. (We opened up, I believe, just in time)
Now, I’ve been running on Castrol Super Chainsaw oil ever since I bought my trike (100 hours). Total time on the motor is 530. I know that the previous owner used Super Outboard oil. I also know of a 503 that was opened on 1000 hours with just about no carbon. It was run on Super Outboard!!!!
So why did I decide to change to Chainsaw???? If you can recall, there was a big discussion regarding this issue. To sum up…… it was advised to run 582’s on Super Outboard because they don’t run as hot as a 503 and for the latter stick to Super Chainsaw because it was developed for air-cooled motors that run on the hot side. This was said regardless of official Rotax documents I have seen that states………” don’t use oil that is developed for outboard motors in any Rotax machine”
So I am back to square one. Do I stick to Super chainsaw or should I change to Castrol Super Outboard.
I feel it is time to do the Outboard thing?

[Biggles]

Also not wanting to re-open this arguement but i was sold on changing over to super chainsaw after I finished my box of super outboard due to the forum discussion. However I had a look through the ports and can see no evidence of carbon build up. Infact I could see an almost clear film of oil on the connecting rods... Ok its a young motor (200hours).

[Grumpy]

I changed from synthetic stuff (now discontinued) to Castrol Super outboard in my 503. It has 150 hrs on. Clean and shiny and purrs like a kitten. It's the tcw3 that you need in oil to prevent the carbon build up. Total also has a oil with tcw3 and it's cheaper.
My 2c worth

[Boet]

I give up!!!!

[nickjaxe]

Just been looking at a Rotax maintenance DVD I got from the states, and the guys states to use air cooled 2 stroke oil in the 582 as long as it has the right grades as stated by Rotax, going on to say that outboard oil is for a much cooler running engine than the water cooled Rotax 582 engine,

Saying that thats only that guys opinion on the DVD.

Nick.

[Graham Mac]

We use TCW 3 Marine two stroke oil.FUCHS.
Rotax 582 water cooled
it seems to make obvious sense to use a water cooled designed oil for a water cooled motor.used for many hours no carbon build up.FUCHS TCW 3 MARINE. used to come in blue container now changed to silver container.
School trikes with many hours use the same.
My two cents.use it or loose it
Fly safe

[pierre]

[quote="Graham Mac"]We use TCW 3 Marine two stroke oil.FUCHS.


Meaning of FUCHS...........?

????
p

[Graham Mac]

Fuchs is the manufacturer under licence from Germany.
Fuchs Oil is in Alberton Gauteng
thats where i source my TITAN TCW3 Marine two stroke oil from.

[Biggles]

Slightly off topic here but anyone know the differences in operating tempratures for the 582 and 503?

And if there temps are anywhere near the temprature that these oils degrade at. and also keep in mind that two stroke oil doesn't hang around for long but flushed out quite quickly. And i imagine the temps in the crankcase are no where near those at the cylinder head.

And what the actual difference is between super chainsaw and super outboard?

[nickjaxe]

If it helps my 503 CHT is 325F.

Nick.

[nickjaxe]

Just had a look at my Rotax manual and they give the same grade and type of 2 stroke oil for all there 2 strokes 447-582, ie API-TC such as Castrol TTS.

Nick.

[redrocket]

My input
I have been flying on synthetic oils +- 1000 hrs with 503SI engines and has never had huge carbon build up deposits on any of the 4 engines i had.

- carbon based 2 stroke oils always leaves a deposit when buning. 1st place it sticks to is your pistons compression rings and they stop expanding resulting in power loss etc etc
- synthetic oils leaves a much smaller deposit when burning.

My Doepa as learnt from my instructor (NOT to be quouted as the alfa and omega), and brother, a 2stroke motorcycle mechanic specialist.
- I usually spray a little carburetter cleaner into the carbs running the motor with a little bit of ref's. Usually the motor huffs and s a little and then continiuos to run as only a 503 does and then i spray the 2nd carb/chamber a little.
- I am always mindfull that i do not spray too much carb cleaner because it will smother that cylinder and wash too much of the 2 stroke lubrication off.(the good stuf that makes any two metal surfaces slide effortlessly without getting hot, i would not want this to happen to my crank bearings thin needle rollers).
-It also removes the carbon build-up of your piston rings and head and spark plugs.
- I do this about enery 50Hrs

- you should also ensure u are using the correct spark plugs.
They are usually one of the culprits when it comes to most engine problems. (burning holes in pistons, ignition problems, overheating engines, low engine power, and of coarse your problem of carbon build up!)
I use the one with the resistor. The sparklers i change often, sometimes even after 10 hrs, makes me happy because they are cheap and saves you a lot of money versus engine failures.

redrocket
PS . dont qoute me or put me on the stake. This is my opinion only. dont do as i say hey.

[Hak]

I have used Caltex TT Super 2 Stroke (TSC-3) 4 more than 10y not a single problem

[Hak]

PS: It all depends what your instructor uses

[Rudix]

I have used Caltex TT Super 2 Stroke (TSC-3) 4 more than 10y not a single problem

I use the same, my 618 (Rans S12) is sitting on 600 hours without any visible carbon and the rings are nice and loose