Fuel level probe

[Wargames]

Hi Guys,

I plan on fitting a fuel level guage on my trike. It is a windlass. Where is the best way to fit the sensor in the tank?? I plan to fit a VDO. If someone have some pics on above, I will apreciate it!!

Regards,

Dirk

[Morph]

Fuel level sensor - Any VDO unit will do. You have the resitive float type (common and cheap). Next is the tube resitive type (much better but more expensive) and then you get the capacitive tube type (kak)

I prefer the tube resistive type but you need to find one that is the same depth or longer than your tank. I.e. if your 55l tank is 450mm deep then any sensor equal or longer will work. You can shorten them if too long.

Don't bother with the normal crappy gauges. Get yourself a MGL FF1 and add to that a fuel flow sensor. This gauge will support any resistive or capacitive sensors. Now you have complete fuel management. The FF1 uses te combination of fuel level and fuel flow to give you accurate predictions and usage of fuel

[Wargames]

Hi Morph,

I have ordered me the FF1. I'm more at odds with actual fitting of probe in the tank. I can get a float type that looks decent. My problem however is where to fit it in the tank so that the float does not get hindered by anything. Do you know of any trikes at morningstar that have something similar fitted so I can go and have a look.

Regards,

[gertcoetzee]

I have the float type hooked up to my Skydat on DVE. It has never worked - it says 100% until I think I have about 20l gone, and after that it says some % which does not relate at all to the fuel level. All I know is that when it says 30% I have 10l left and it is time for a landing.

Contacted Solowings and Skydat guys after I bought it and neither were in the least interested in sorting the problem out.

Maybe you will have more luck with MGLAVIONICS's FF1. Problem with them is that they do not have stock. Always a waiting period.

[Wargames]

Pity DVE is not here. Maybe we shall do the trip to aurora!!

AE have a unit for me, and the calibration is something I can do, but which side do I install the unit. Remember now that my fuel line pulls fuel out the top, and this provide a problem with the float sensor.

Do I install it left top, the same side as my fuel line, and stand a chance to disturb the sensor when I remove cap to refuel??

Do I install it right top, the opposite site, and then hope that the float does not compete with my fuel line for space and get stuck??

Any sugestions??

[gertcoetzee]

Mine is installed on the opposite side as the fuel cap. Visit me this weekend at Aurora, or else we fly there next week (I am free Wed Thurs and Sun next week).

[Morph]

Gadget also has one installed in his at Morning Star.

The MGL gauge will need to be calibrated, a very simple procedure. Once done it is quite accurate. Gadget is away in the UK for the next 2 weeks. Maybe we can get the key from Ranger to have a look. The most important part is the float must have full freedom of movement and not get in the way of syphon tubes etc. Also mucho importante, take the tank out of the trike when you do it, and then make sure you rinse the tank out thoroughly. Even then replace the fuel filter after 5 hours.

My only near engine out was caused by a filter clogged from a new fuel tank. And that at 5.5 hours from replacement. And I thought I had flushed the tank properly.

[Barnstormer]

This topic is right up my alley!

I have wanted to ask this questions same time ago.
Timing sucks a bit as I still have some studying and exams to do and write, and now here I am thinking fuel and levels and tanks

So here goes!

So Morph, which level sender should I use for the Thunderbird? The resistive tube type if I read you correctly? I have the FF3.
Everything is installed but the level senders.

THX!

[Barnstormer]

O-ja!

Thx also for the "replace the fuel filter after 5 hours" tip!

[Morph]

So Morph, which level sender should I use for the Thunderbird? The resistive tube type if I read you correctly? I have the FF3.
Everything is installed but the level senders.

THX!

Yes definately resistive. The capacitive ones are highly inaccurate and the same point on the sender will give varying readings. The FF guage can work with most makes, but VDO is the safest.


I am not sure of the shape of the tank, probably tall as opposed to flat wing tanks. I prefer to use the tube type, they are more expensive but the fuel level reading tends to stay more consistant than the float type. The tube is essentially a solid aluminium tube with restive coils inside. There is a float inside the tube that move up and down with the fuel level. The float type have a wire arm with a little float on it. This arm pivots around a resistive element.

The FF has six points of calibration. So if you have a 50 liter tank, then you have empty, (I would set empty at 5liters to give yourself a 10% reserve), you have full (50Liters) then 4 in between. So with the 5liter reseve as the empty, the remaining 45 liters is divided by 5 (6 points of measurement, first being empty, that leaves 5). 45/5=9liters per segment

So your measurements need to be taken at
5liters
5+9=14liters
14+9=23liters
23+9=32liters
32+9=41liters
41+9=50liters

So set your tank/plane up in a flying attitude with the tank drained. Carefully as accurately as possible pour in the five. Write down the reading on the gauge and save it as the first reading. next add the 9 liters and do it again. Repeat until full. Your guage should now be calibrated.

Now test it by draining the tank. This time use the normal full(50), 3/4(37.5+5=42.5), 1/2(25+5=30), 1/4(12.5+5=17.5), empty(5) or follow liter by liter. Use the guage as the indicator. Compare the guage results with the amount of drained fuel.

[Barnstormer]

Thx Morph!